Prototypes

Hi Everyone,
I like to try new things from time to time and in order to spot and work out problems ahead of time I like to make prototypes and give them to friends who like to cook. This gives me a chance to work out design and production problems before I jump into making things out of more expensive materials. And by giving them to friends to test, I can see if my designs work out in a busy kitchen environment.
Ive been wanting to make both small tea boxes and salt cellars and since I had some thick pine left over from a previous project I decided to use a pine blank and make a salt cellar.
Salt cellars have been around probably as long as there has been salt. They are open containers, not salt shakers per se, and they allow the cook to grab a pinch of salt so the container has to be wide enough to admit an adult hand and shallow enough so that a person doesnt have to dig around trying to get every last grain of salt.
So Ive cut out an approximately 5 1/2" blank and mounted it on the lathe and began turning it to a round shape:
You can see that Ive cut a tenon and a foot. I like to cut foots on bowls because it gives a nice transition between the table surface and the bowl. The tenon is the attachment point for the lathe.
Since pine is a very soft wood it only took about 10 minutes to completely cut and finish the outside. I then flipped it over and hollowed out the inside. Ive purposefully left it rather shallow so grabbing the last couple of grains of salt isnt so difficult:
This is also an interesting piece of wood in that it has a lot of pitch in it. If you look at the rim you can see an area that is really soaked with pitch (and the wood shop smells great at the moment). This is typical of pine and a reason why you dont want to burn this in a fireplace.
Since our salt cellar will be probably sitting on a counter were it could get splashed with water, it will need a lid to keep the salt inside dry. So Im fashioning a lid out of another piece of pine and Brazilian cherry. Since it is so very cold in the wood shop at the moment and glue wont dry under those conditions, Im going to use a wood screw to screw on the block of wood that is going to become the knob. I also am planning on turning the knob into a finial-type shape and Im worried that the narrowness of the base could cause it to break off at some future point so I think a wood screw works well. But I suspect that it will ruin the esthetics of the piece. Oh well, we cant have everything.
This photo shows the lid mounted on the lathe and the sides and underside shaped. The lid needs to be able to be removed with one hand so it cant be a tight fit but it cant be so loose that it wobbels so it has to be shaped and cut one bit at a time till this fit is achieved. I dont like the way the screw looks...
I got the top and bottom to fit and Ive fitted them together and Im going to turn them as a single piece so the diameters of both will be identical:
And here is the completed box.I rounded off the knob just to get the corners off of the block. After that I took the lid off of the bottom and turned it on the faceplate in order to fully shape the knob. Here is a photo of the completed lid on the bottom of the box:
Here is the underside of the lid:
That screw has got to go.
This is the inside of the bowl:
Since this piece of wood has so much pitch in it, Ive put an oil and beeswax finish on it as I dont think other finishes will work well here. 
Discussion:
Well, I normally like the items I make but Im not too sure of this one. The knob is too stubby for a finial and Im not sure I like the difference in color. And that metal screw has got to go. No more screws. Ill go back to doweling the knobs on like I have in the past. Oh well, thats what prototypes are for.  They answer questions and help me to make better decisions next time around. 
I have a young friend who likes to use coarse sea salt when she cooks so Ill ask her to use this for a while and see how it works. 
The wood shop is absolutely freezing right now so Im going to stop and come back later today after Ive warmed up a bit. Im going to shape the tea boxes Ive told you about and get those on the road. And the wedding present is on hold. Its too big for my lathe and Im going to have to figure out how to cut it without cutting it too narrow.
So lets get some hot coffee and Ill see you later in the wood shop. Stay warm!!
VW
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red sky in the morning

 sailors take warning
looks like rain later today !
click the photos to enlarge them ...
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Shop Update Part II

Well, after a small prescribed burn, I have at least one corner of the shop decent enough for some pictures.
First is the new wood rack doing its job quite nicely:
I didnt realize how much 6 stock I had picked up. This was mostly because the old rack couldnt handle 8 stock in an easy manner. Now that I have a much better rack, I can go back to buying longer, and thus more versatile, stock.
As I mentioned in a comment on the previous wood rack post, I added plywood "decking" to the second and third shelf to both increase the racking resistance (earthquakes) and allow for easier storage of shorts. Also, I added sliding trays under the bottom platform to handle even more shorts.
And here is the GGTC - Gigantic Green Tool Chest:
The body of the chest is made of 3/4" birch plywood that I found buried at the bottom of the old wood rack. I dont use plywood very often anymore, but this was leftover from my table saw days and much too nice to send to the landfill.
This is going in to my school shop to safely keep unsupervised hands achoice from sharp tools.
Now its back to the shop overhaul - next up, the new wall!

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Cutting boards new design discussion and plans

Hi Everyone,
Well, I got a new garage door today, to replace the old, much patched one. This one is insulated and should make for both  a warmer home in winter and a cooler one this summer.
As soon as work finished on the door, I got to work on a new breadboard. My old ones were round, flat, and not much else. Since both sides of the board have to be turned and worked on, I didnt have a method for attaching the board blank to the lathe without drilling holes in or cutting a tenon. This results in a cutting board with holes on the top-not a very satisfactory situation.
Then I remembered turners tape. Turning tape is a heavy duty, cloth tape that is sticky on both sides. Its so sticky that if you touch it its like trying to get unstuck from super glue. This enables a wood turner to attach a blank to a faceplate and then to the lathe without drilling holes at all. So one face of the board will be solid and smooth. Lets take a look:
I had a very wide piece of white ash in the wood pile that was too thin to turn into a tray or a dish but would be just right for a cutting board.   I fished it out and measured it and cut it into a big circle
The tape is first applied to the face of the faceplate. The surface has to be perfectly clean and the wood has to be smooth and dust free:
Next I placed the face plate exactly in the center of the blank and pushed down:
Since this type of tape is pressure sensitive, I placed several bricks on top of the faceplate and let that whole thing sit for about 20 minutes:
Ive taken the bricks off and mounted the blank on the lathe. This seems very sturdy even though there are no screws holding the plate and the blank together. Im going to sharper my tools and take very gentle shallow cuts to flatten and smooth the surface. In this photo you can also see that Ive cut a shallow tenon for the 4 jaw chuck to attach to when I turn it over:
Here we are after about 30 minutes of work. Ive cut a small cove for fingers to grab onto, and smoothed and sanded the surface. The tenon is still there.
I flipped over the blank and attached it to the chuck and turned the surface. It had to be smoothed and flattened, another cove cut at the edge for fingers to grip on and a juice groove along the edge. This is the top of the cutting board...
...and this is the bottom.
I am going to re-attach it to the faceplate with tape again and tune off the mortise and tenon and very gently dish out the center of the board then sand it smooth. I suspect by doing this the board will continue to sit flat and stable if warps a little bit. 
So Im going to break for coffee and lunch and Ill be back shortly.
VW
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Its Been Too Long

I know its only been a few weeks since I last posted, but with all thats going on to keep me from posting, it feels like its been much longer. Ive finally written up most of the wand build Ive been working on for the past few weeks, so the posts will be back to a regular schedule for now.
Thanks for sticking around.
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Scrap wood ideas small square box with a turned lid

Good Evening Everyone,
Well, I was very busy all day today and I decided since I had been a good girl, the wood fairies should reward me with an hour in the work shop.
I generate a lot of small scrap like most wood workers do and Im really ruthless about getting rid of them and keeping the shop uncluttered. But it does pay to keep small blocks of wood-they make knobs and other small things that you dont want to cut up a larger piece of lumber for.
I bought a large glued up pine block a while back and I cut it into smaller blocks (youll see one of them tomorrow when I write about the tea box).  I bought some small earrings recently and I needed a small box to keep them in and so I took two of the smaller pine blocks and put them to work.
Here we go:
I decided to make a small square box for my earrings. Its a fast short term project that is easy to make:
I took the larger of the two blocks and sanded the sides smooth and then I drilled a 2 1/4" diameter hole into the center of it with a Forstner bit and that finished the box portion. Then I took the other block and drilled a 1"diameter hole into it and used the hole to put it on the lathe. I cut a small tenon on it that is the same diameter as the hole in the block so the two fit together:
Then I shaped the outside of the top to smooth it and to create a small knob. Total turning time was about 30 minutes from beginning to end:
The box needs to be sanded very smoothed and then finished. This is a neat project if you need to make a small gift for someone or if you want to use it as a gift box to give to someone with a present inside.
Another amazing adventure at SWW Blog!
See you tomorrow,
VW
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Makers Mark Branding Iron

Heres what I have been using to mark my work for posterity. This is so at some future date, a Road Show expert can say: "Thankfully, that mark tells us exactly who made this piece of crap!". Or I suppose it might be more along the lines of: "Thankfully, that mark tells us exactly who made this unique, charmingly shabby, country style, distressed piece." Whatever.
Its a branding iron made from a bolt with a square piece of steel welded onto it (thanks T.S.!). I then used a Dremel tool (Yup! This thing predates my metamorphosis into neanderthal mode.) to carve my mark into the square. Grab with Visegrips, heat it with a propane torch, and brand achoice.

The mark is just something I made up using my initials. But seen sidechoices, it looks an awful lot like a little pig. Hmm.
I have been planning on making a newer, and possible smaller, version of this brand. To do this without the Dremel would be a new challenge. Ive been thinking that I could make one out of an old tinsmiths soldering iron, as the copper would be much easier to work, and it already has a nice handle attached - not that I dont like the Visegrips...

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